Thursday, January 29, 2015

Tutorial: How To Make A Full Skirt?

Happy Thursday Loves!

  Today, I'm finally sharing my tutorial for a full skirt. In yesterday's post I shared the full skirt that I am working on this week in the studio where I created my striped fabric by piecing together strips of navy blue and white pique.

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1. Waist
2. Length from waist to desired skirt length
1. Ruler
2. Tape Measure
3. Fabric Scissors
4. Fabric Pencil
5. Pins/Weights
6. Fabric (1yd = 19 inch skirt, 1.5 yd = 21 inch skirt, 2yd = 35 inch skirt)
7. Interfacing
8. Sewing Machine
9. Serger
Step 1: Fold the fabric to the width of your waist plus one to two inches.

Step 2: Measure down (on the fold) from the top of the skirt 18"  (includes seam allowance) or to your desired length for the skirt. And make a mark with a pencil or pin.

Step 3: With your fabric pencil square a line the length of your waist across the fabric at the mark you just created.

Step 4: Square a line vertically along the selvage edge that is 18" or your desired skirt length and repeat steps 1 - 4 for the back of the skirt.

Step 5:  Cut out your squares and set them aside.

Step 6: Fold your fabric the width of your waist measurement plus one to two inches to create your waistband.

Step 7: Measure down the fold 5 inches and make a mark

Step 8: Square a line across from the mark created in Step 7 to a length that is equal to your waist measurement plus 1 inch (you will want to be sure the top of the waistband is equal to the waist measurement plus 1 inch).

Step 9: Square a line vertically up along the selvage that is 5 inches and cut out your waistband. *Note: At this point I serged all my edges because the fabric I used frays badly*



Step 10: Grab both the needle and bobbin threads and pull until it touches the floor and makes a small puddle. 



Step 11: Create gathers in the top of the skirt at 1/4 inch seam allowance: Lay the front piece of your skirt under the two thread (threads on top) and create a zigzag stitch the length of the skirt. *Note: Be sure that the zigzag is wide enough to cover the threads* (Repeat for the back)

Step 12: Locate and grab the tail end of the double thread and gently pull it to start the gathers in your skirt.



Step 13: Use one hand to pull the tail and the other hand to gradually even out the gathers in the skirt. Use a pin to wrap the excess thread around to create an anchor so no gathers are lost. (Repeat for the back)

Step 14: Locate your waistband and apply interfacing to the waistband.



Step 15: Pin the right side of the skirt from top to bottom and stitch. Then Pin the left side of the skirt together leaving 5 inches unpinned from the top for zipper insertion. Stitch from the bottom to the zipper point.

Step 16: Locate your waistband and fold it in half widthwise and make a notch to mark the location of the side seam.



Step 17: Pin the waistband to each edge of the skirt (front and back). Place a pin aligning the notch to the right seam of the skirt. Gently glide the gathers so they align evenly with the waistband and pin as you go around. Then stitch.

Step 18: Press the seam allowance of the waistband up.



Step 19: Press open the seam allowances on the side seams. Fold a 1/2 inch hem and steam it in place and stitch. *Note: I used the walking foot to sew the hem. This is optional.*

Step 20:  Locate your invisible zipper and press the teeth back with an iron on cool to medium heat so that the teeth lay flat. Insert the zipper by pinning the zipper to the seam allowance of one side of the skirt with the zipper pull facing downward against the seam allowance. (Be sure the zipper is not twisted and the teeth face out when the seam allowance is folded back - Zipper teeth face away from the serged edge).

*TIP: TO ALIGN THE WAISTBAND, STITCH ONE SIDE OF THE ZIPPER THEN ZIP IT AND MAKE A MARK ON THE ZIPPER AT THE SEAM THAT CONNECTS THE SKIRT TO THE WAISTBAND*  **ALIGN THAT MARK TO THE SEAM ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE SKIRT, PIN, AND STITCH**

Step 21: Stitch the zipper using an invisible zipper foot. Be sure to stitch as close to the teeth as possible. Tip: I let the base of the zipper foot glide along the teeth of the zipper

Step 22: Fold down the top of the waistband over the zipper and stitch (front and back)

Step 23:  Turn the waistband right side out. Then fold up the waistband seam allowance and steam. Stitch in the ditch to complete the waist band.


THE END!


If you have any questions just click the Leave A comment button and I'll get back to you. I'm very interested to know if this is something you will try so let me know in the comment section!

Until next time...


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